From Jacques Pépin's A Grandfather's Lessons: In the Kitchen with Shorey: "This dish goes back to my days of working at the Howard Johnson Commissary in Queens Village. The commissary turned out tons of hot dogs, among many other products, and I had fun preparing them in unconventional ways: sliced in a stew with beans or in soups, in salads with a mustard sauce, or with cabbage. I do not remember exactly how we invented the “curly dog.” It involved cutting the hot dogs in such a way that they curled as they cooked. Each dog is cut halfway through lengthwise and then with about 12 crosswise slits, so when it cooks in a skillet, it curls into a “dented” wheel. I knew Shorey would enjoy making curly dogs with me.
The relish I serve with the dogs is a bit tart and uses dill pickles because Shorey loves it that way. I like pork and beef hot dogs, but any hot dogs will do. Only one hamburger bun is used for both the hot dogs, half a bun for each curly dog to sit on, and the centers are filled with the relish."
Makes about 1 cup; enough for 4 hot dogs
To see how it’s done, go to www.surlatable.com/jacquespepin.