From Edward Lee's Buttermilk Graffiti: "Budae jjigae was my dad’s favorite thing to eat. He used to have it with Spam and hot dogs, but I make it with fried bologna. I use American cheese, because there is no real substitute for it. This is a good soup, and I think its ingenuity is still relevant. It represents a utilitarian kind of cuisine that I don’t want to forget. Not everything has to be glossy and precious. Sometimes food is just a no-frills gustatory experience. This is also one of the best hangover meals."