I've never been a lover of pancakes, not even as kid (I wasn't into breakfast, especially sweet breakfast, and usually opted for the previous night's leftovers instead). As an adult, I still dislike traditional pancakes because not only am I terrible at flipping them, but they have a way of turning into syrup-soaked gut bombs. However, I do enjoy pancake-adjacent foods, such as Dutch babies and crepes, so this buckwheat skillet pancake mostly takes its cues from those somewhat lighter, crispy-edged dishes. Like a Dutch baby, the brown butter and buckwheat batter in this pancake puffs and browns dramatically in the oven. The texture isn't fluffy but it is rich and custardy, similar to a clafoutis. My favorite part is the way the tart blueberries burst from the high heat and turn into a jammy topping. And because the pancake is only a tiny bit sweet, this is one breakfast where a drizzle of maple syrup is actually welcome.
The batter, covered and stored in the refrigerator, can be made 1 day ahead.
*If you have a crowd to feed, double the recipe for the batter and bake the pancake in a 13 × 9-inch baking dish (preferably metal or ceramic). You won’t preheat the pan on the stove the way you do the skillet, but follow these baking instructions: Arrange an oven rack in the center position and preheat the oven to 350°F. Thoroughly butter the bottom and sides of the dish, then pour in one-third of the batter and let it settle all the way into the sides and corners. Bake just until the surface is set and matte and the center springs back gently when pressed, about 4 minutes. Carefully remove the pan from the oven and pour in the remaining batter, then scatter 12 ounces (340g) blueberries over the batter. Return it to the oven and bake until the edges are puffed and browned and the center is risen and set but still jiggly, another 45 to 55 minutes. It won’t soufflé as dramatically as it does in a preheated skillet, but will be more clafoutis-like. Cut it into pieces and serve with maple syrup.